FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, LIECHSTENSTEIN, AUSTRIA, ITALY
September 18, 2011


And we’re off!! Left Vendome on Monday, August 29 about 9 am. 420 km later we were in the Central Massif near Royat, a large town with an amazing view of the Puy de Dome. The Puy is the most distinctive of the hundreds of extinct volcanoes which form the Massif, a beautiful area of cone-shaped mountains and fertile valleys. The main event of the day was that this was to be our first night in The White Night, and it was excellent.

Continuing on the next day crossing the Rhone River, one of the largest in Europe and from whose shores come great wines, the scenery went forever. By Grenoble and on to Bourg d’Oisans, a town at the foot of the famous bike climb, Alp d'Huez, included in the Tour de France since 1952. That afternoon we drove to the summit, which made my cycling legs hurt already!! In the middle of the night our four-way flashers came on…a bit late…we had pushed the button some twelve hours earlier in suddenly slowing heavy traffic. And then…the day of reckoning. I rode l’Alpe d’Huez, a dream of mine. Thirteen kilometers with grades ranging from 5 to 10%, averaging a very fat 8%. Did it hurt? Yup! Will I do it again? Yup!

On then to Bourg St. Maurice, the entry to some of the best hill climbs and sking on the planet. We had skied meter deep powder at Tigne in 2006. I had hoped to ride a couple of passes but the weather turned so one had to suffice. And it did. The Col of the Little St. Bernard goes into Italy. Not steep at an average 4.4% grade but it makes up for it in its length at 30 km and in its stiff and cold headwinds for the last seven km.

Soon out of France it was on to Switzerland, one of our most favourite places. The scenery cannot be described and must be seen first-hand. Over passes in 4C temperatures and some fog trying not to go over the side of the road to a sure oblivion; your steering arms get a workout here. Through Heidiland in the center and most mountainous part of the country before heading south close to Italy. This is the lowest and sunniest part of the country. But the buildings, cars, people, clothes and attitudes resemble full-on Italy. We weren’t ready for this yet so we scooted back into the mountains and eventually into Liechtenstein, the postage size country whose monarch can over-ride and decisions taken by the parliament. Vaduz, the capital is an odd mixture of old and new. Eventually found a campground inside the country and had drinks with South Africans now living in Australia. Hangover 101.

If you get to Switzerland make sure to drive Route 19 from Brig to Disentis and south to Biasca. Heidi lives here…guaranteed.

On to Austria, land of mountains, the steepest church steeples in the world, tunnels and more very crooked roads. Camped outside Innsbruck, a city of history and beautiful buildings. We didn’t stay though…wanted to get more riding in so we headed on. On the way we stopped in Kitzbuhl, home to the scariest world downhill race held every year. The town and the area are amazing and though we were limited by fog and drizzle, the atmosphere made up for it. It is expensive and a “wanna-be” type of place. Lienz, our camping spot, is Banff, Canada and Queenstown, New Zealand on steroids but without the attitude. Incredible scenery and every sport you can buy equipment for. The week we were there, a major mountain bike race took place which added to the hype. I did manage both a mountain bike and a road bike ride though, so all was good. Lots of solar power on the houses here. Lienz has both walking AND biking paths!! Austria has the best and longest bike paths we have ever used over the years. The bright green colour of the manicured and hand-raked fields on the slopes of the mountains cry out for a photo op.

In Austria, drive Route 107 from Bruck to Winklern near Lienz. It has been described as one of the most beautiful drives in the world…but that’s an understatement. Have a small vehicle; the 12% grades, constant 180 degree turns and high elevation take their toll. The road is heaven for motorcyclists. The side road to Franz Joseph Glacier is a must. (As a side note we have been to Franz Joseph Glacier in two countries…Austria and New Zealand.) The $45 fee, though as steep as the roads, to enter the park is worth every penny.

Leaving Austria and entering Italy, one doesn’t see much of a change. It’s mountainous, the houses look the same and there are still lots of churches. In fact, this is still part of the Tirol region. German is spoken as much as Italian. This part of northern Italy was until the end of WWI part of Austria; hence the similarities. In fact, it is still considered part of the Tirol region which is mainly in Austria. The houses and hotels are indistinguishable from those in Austria with amazing large decorative wall paintings and colourful flowers hanging from the balconies. But this is the Italian Dolomites, one of the most beautiful and rugged mountain areas of the world. Paragliding and biking are big in the summer while skiing, of course, is it in the winter. Cost for a season pass for a HUGE area of endless runs? $200!! How cheap is that?!?! For hikers and mountain bikers alike the ski lifts are run year-round for them. Wow!! What a novel idea!

One thing we’ve realized about the “lawn-like” appearance of the steep grass areas in Switzerland, Austria and northern Italy is that they are actually mowed periodically. To reduce fire hazard or for appearance, we’re not sure.

Rode a few of the passes in the area. Some of the best climbing to be found with steepish roads, constant 180 degree curves and alpine scenery to help the aching legs on the way up. And I was nearly hit, within a few centimeters, by a crazy Italian driver passing another car going uphill at some 80kph while I was blasting down at 60kph! I was almost literally in his rear-view mirror! And then the next day, while again screaming downhill on my road bike, I was hit! It hurt like hell! It was a shock! I was forced to a rather sudden stop to check the damage! Did I mention it was a bee that stung me at 50kph??

We’re now in Riva del Garda, a town on the northern shore of Lake Garda, a large lake in northern Italy just south of the Dolomites. It is one of the best places on earth for windsurfers with the consistent winds. The palm trees tell us we’re at a much lower elevation. The town has a beautiful old area great for strolling. We’ll be here for a few days till our friends from France catch up and we all head to the Balkans.

Now we all know how Italy is famous for clothes, culture, shoes, food and culture in general. Well they have now even put their style on the Coke can with little Miss Italian Hottie. Works for me!

The weather continues to be warm and sunny…WE’LL TAKE IT!!

Oh…and The White Night says hi!